If you’re anything like me, you’ve spent countless hours daydreaming about that quintessential Creek island getaway. You know the one where azure waters lap gently against sun-kissed shores, and life ambles along at a leisurely pace, with book in hand under a tree on the beach. But unlike the tourist-clogged streets of Santorini or Mykonos, let me tell you about a place that feels like it was plucked straight out of a traveler’s fantasy and yet remains blissfully under the radar: Anafi, the southmost island in Cyclades.
Our journey began with a ferry ride to Santorini, the main launchpad to this little wonder. My bright yellow Vespa, one of the very few circulating the streets of Athens in this color, was packed with Efie and a couple of bags. After a short stop in Athinios to switch boats for the one hour cruise to Anafi, where time seems to stand still and nature’s raw beauty takes center stage. As the island gradually came into view, its stark, craggy cliffs rising defiantly from the azure waters, I felt an immediate thrill of discovery. Anafi, unlike its more famous neighbors, doesn’t try to dazzle you with opulence. Instead, it charms with its simplicity and authenticity, offering a refreshing escape from the orchestrated experiences of more touristy locales.
Upon arriving at the port of Agios Nikolaos, the first thing that strikes you is the serenity. It is a postcard-perfect enclave with a few fishing boats bobbing lazily in the clear, blue waters. No throngs of camera-toting tourists here, just a quiet hum of locals going about their day, in other words, a promising start.
A short drive—or an invigorating hike, if you prefer—leads to Chora, the island’s main village. Perched high on a hill, Chora is a maze of narrow streets and whitewashed houses, each adorned with splashes of vibrant bougainvillea. It’s the kind of place where you lose your way, but instead of feeling lost, you feel like you’ve found exactly what you were looking for. Wandering through Chora, you can’t help but notice the timelessness of it all. It’s as if the village exists in a bubble, untouched by the relentless march of time. The locals are warm and welcoming, quick to share a smile and perhaps a tale or two about the island’s history. And history, it turns out, is something Anafi has in abundance. Legend has it that Anafi emerged from the sea at the command of Apollo, providing a refuge for the Argonauts. This mythological origin sets the stage for an island steeped in ancient lore and historical significance. Wander through the ruins of the ancient city of Anafi, and you’ll find remnants of a past that dates back to the early Cycladic civilization. The scattered ruins of temples and the remnants of ancient walls tell tales of a time when Anafi was a bustling hub of maritime trade and cultural exchange.
On the way back to Athens, we stopped over for a few hours and a quick swim in Santorini. I do not wish to spare any words on describing this travesty of the former paradise on earth. Back in the 80’s I thought that blessed is the man that will spent his last moments looking down the magnificent caldera. Today it is predominantly a tourist trap, a sad spectacle for those that had the privilege to experience what was arguably the most beautiful place on the planet.